Chania, Crete
Yes, I’ve been absent for months now. And it’s not so much that I haven’t been drinking any beer or going anywhere noteworthy…just a little hiatus. Just got back from traveling for a few weeks to Greece, Turkey, and Ukraine. Not necessarily places known for beers and, truth be told, I drank mostly wines, champagne, scotch, and raki during these travels. Raki? What’s that you ask? More on that later. The beers that were available there were primarily pilsners, and pretty unremarkable. They went down smoothly when served very cold though, which is just what we needed when walking in the sun through some serious heat. You noticing the similarity in the beers that predominate the warmer regions of the world?
Mythos seemed to be the brand of choice in Greece. And for a change, I wasn’t being picky. I needed something cold and wet, and a few rounds of the beer in 1/2 L servings was the perfect thing to wash down the kebabs and souvlaki sold at tavernas throughout Greece. Each taverna had their unique recipes for each of the traditional dishes and all paired very well with beer. I love Greek food, but the one dish that was most amazing was not one that I’d even heard of in the Americanized versions of Greek restaurants in the states. The dish was made with a block of manouri cheese, crusted with sesame seeds and fried and served with macerated cherries. It was decadent, and an amazing combination of crunchy and creamy textures and savory, sweet and tart flavors. And to boot, it was an amazing pairing with raki, the local distilled spirit in Crete made with grapes and various grains depending on the distillery. It is essentially ouzo without the anise added, so quite potent but with a very subtle sweetness and aroma and taste of raisins. This dish was served at Ouzeri in Fira, Santorini. All of the other dishes were quite nice as well. The local wines that we had with dinner left something to be desired, but sitting on a terrace in the midst of the pristine white buildings built into the cliffs of Santorini and drinking well-into the night was an amazing experience.
Mario #1 was another place that we visited on Santorini that was a great find. It was on Monolithos beach and the waiter just walks you up to the fish cart, with all the fresh seafood on ice, and you order up what you want so that they can prepare it fresh. The seafood is amazing! Super fresh and a meal that I can eat every day! Sitting in the warmth of summer on a beach in Santorini, eating fresh seafood and drinking a Mythos…. that’s a vacation.
Lin and mom on the Acropolis, Athens, Greece
In contrast, Chania, Crete has a more old world feel. A slightly darker port town with small cobblestone alleys filled with charming small shops and restaurants. It’s a treat to get lost in the maze of alleys exploring the hidden nooks and crannies that were just outside the more touristic shopping areas. There were several great restaurants, and one of my favorites was, Tamam. It’s located in an old bath house with an outdoor seatin area. The food was fantastic after a long travel day and like most other restaurants in Greece, they’re open late. I don’t think anyone eats dinner before 10pm there, and it suited me just fine. The local wines that they featured were nice and dry compared to the very young, and often too sweet, wines that are found locally. And of course dinner comes with a digestif of locally produced raki. The seafood was great at Tamam. In fact, all the food was fantastic. This place is definitely worth visiting again! I was tempted to go back the following night although we were only in town for 2 nights. I succumbed to curiosity though and ended up at Portes. Also with good food and a very cute atmosphere at the end of a charming little alley with outdoor seating being most popular. I have to admit that I enjoyed the food at Tamam more, but this place is also very cute and the owner of the restaurant even shared her son’s birthday cake with us. Her 9 year old son had actually made his own ice-cream cake and it wasn’t bad. The restaurant is owned and run by a married couple, the husband making the food and the wife waiting tables. It’s the type of place that you’ve gotta support!
Ancient ruins under the floor of the Acropolis Museum, Athens, Greece
The mainland of Greece was not as charming, but so rich in culture and history that it’s awe-inspiring just walking around the cities. The juxtoposition of modern and ancient worlds is fascinating! The perfect example of this is the new Acropolis Museum, a very modern piece of architecture, that is literally built right on top of the ancient ruins. The ancient ruins are preserved and worked into the exhibit via the thick glass panels that make up the floor so that you can see the ancient structures beneath you. It’s an interesting concept, almost as though you’re hovering in mid-air peeking in on a world that had long ago been abandoned. The museum is huge and leaves you with so many questions about the daily lives of past civilizations. This was a recurring theme on this trip, one that makes me truly appreciate how exposure to different cultures can make you feel more aware of the world around you, yet somehow less significant. More on this trip later…
Beer Belly 